Pichle episode mein apne dekha, kaise Sandeep apni family ke sath Sikkim ki talaash mein nikalta hai aur pehle hi din ek dharmsankat mein fas jata hai. Kisi tarah se wo apni family ko surakshit Gangtok le to aata hai par kya wo aane wale kal ke keher se apne parivar ko bacha payega. Janane ke liye padhiye aur bas padhte jaiye 😛
The first night in Gangtok was so beautiful that I could only grab a few hours of sleep before I could see our Chinese counterparts. I did wish for a moment that the childhood daydreams, where I often turn out to be saviour fighting through foreign attacks/terrorist attack and so on.
We knew we had to hit the ground running on this Sikkim trip to pack in enough memories for a lifetime. Speaking of getting a head start, rule number one: embrace the early mornings! In fact, consider ditching sleep altogether for a night or two – the stargazing in Sikkim is phenomenal, especially for city dwellers like us who are starved for a glimpse of the Milky Way 🤩
With an ambitious 6:00 am start, we set our sights on conquering Nathula Pass. But hey, travel throws curveballs occasionally! Turns out, our permits for the pass weren’t finalized for that day. Luckily, our trip guardian angel, Mr. Kunzang Dorjee (more on him later!), swooped in and saved the day. We pivoted our plans to explore the stunning Tsomgo Lake (also known as Changgu Lake), the sacred Baba Harbhajan Temple, and a few hidden gems Mr. Dorjee had up his sleeve.
Well, this isn’t the twist you were looking for!!!
While our driver was on his way, he heard the news that the Sikkim government is not issuing permits to enter North Sikkim on the next day; 2nd June, the fourth day of our trip to be precise. I was baffled as North Sikkim had been floating in and out of our itinerary since last 1 month now. I took a rushed decision to leave for North Sikkim today itself. I was ready to sacrifice my visit to our noodle neighbours 😉
The driver was already halfway there and had shelled out for the permits, so to compensate him for the lost sleep and wasted trip, we settled on a 2,000 rupee penalty. Ugh, bummer! After a good half hour of chatting things through, I settled in to digest the new plan. That’s when we learned another hurdle: our North Sikkim ride wouldn’t arrive until noon. Double darn! We could’ve been exploring Sikkim’s beauty by now! 🤦♂️
Despite the setback, Mr. Kunzang, ever the resourceful one, managed to secure two smaller vehicles for us to explore some local sights. We had a great list of places to visit and some unexpected leisure time, but our excitement was dampened by the slow-moving traffic and long lines of tourist vehicles. My wife, Geeta, who was returning to Gangtok after twenty years, was surprised by the surge in crowds. While Gangtok was still a welcome escape from the scorching summer plaguing North and West India for the rest of us, the initial frustration lingered.
The breakfast didn’t live up to the expectations we had set for Gangtok, but it was because, we were too early for most eateries and had to settle with a bland combo of puri and sabzi. By the time our cars arrived, Geeta started capturing the empty MG Marg filled with flowers. The biggest one though was our contribution in the form of Poggo 🌹
Ganesh Tok – Pure Serenity
Our first stop was Ganesh Tok, a Ganesha temple 7 kms from Gangtok city. On a clear day, it is rumoured (if I don’t see it, I don’t trust it 😛) to offer a distant view of Mt Khangchendzonga and Mt Siniolchu. That’s another painful story, but will keep it for some time later. A stairway runs through the temple that one must climb to reach the upper levels. One can take back souvenirs for their loved ones from the gift shop on the temple premises.
Something that caught my eyes was Kanchendzonga National Park, which was drawing me towards the reviews on Google to ensure I didn’t wish to repeat my mistakes from the morning. Those dreams were put to a halt considering that our package had a different itinerary plus a national park of this size would take considerable time. So, I kept the desire within myself, to be explored sometime later in this trip or lifetime.
Gonjang Monastery – Epitome of Peace
Our next stop, according to the ever-optimistic itinerary in my head, was Rumtek Monastery. But reality, as it often does, had other plans. The package we signed up for included Gonjang Monastery, which makes perfect sense – it’s one of the closest to the city. Unfortunately, my brain went into overdrive and I forgot to adjust my mental map. Let’s just say I was physically present, but mentally miles away! Been there, done that, right?
The colourful flora and the peaceful prayers in the Gonjang Monastery, lightened up my mood marginally.
Just as we were cruising towards our next stop, Mr. Kunzang’s call threw a wrench in our plans. Turns out, the Sikkim government had shut down new permits for visitors entering North Sikkim on June 1st. Talk about bad timing! 😮
By the time our cars crawled to the next stop, Ban Jhakri Falls, I lost my spirit for the day, everything I was planning for was going for a toss. This is evident from the pics below.
Gangtok’s Culinary Adventure – From Momos to More…
Just as I was explaining the change of plans to my family (the disappointment was palpable!), Mr. Kunzang, ever the problem-solver, called with a suggestion. He proposed some alternative sightseeing options including Rumtek Monastery. While heading back to the hotel wasn’t ideal, we decided to regroup. Geeta and I had a secret weapon – a meticulously curated list of restaurants based on glowing reviews and mouthwatering photos. Needless to say, good food was about to become our therapy!
By the time we reached back Gangtok, I was pouring cats and dogs. Our AirKnB (check out the first part if you missed it). While my mom, sister & I decided to explore the unique Nepalese culinary offerings of Hamro Bhansa Ghar, Geeta and Poggo were up for some adventure. They headed towards Baker’s Cafe. The food at Hamro Bhansa Ghar was an extremely diverse experience, food low on spices and every item on the thali was unknown to us. Securing a window seat was a top priority for me. Anyone who’s experienced Gangtok’s breathtaking vistas can understand why. The scenery is simply awe-inspiring, and witnessing it unfold from the comfort of a window seat is an experience in itself. The waiting time was minimum and soon our order arrived. I wish it could have carried the looks to its taste. We weren’t too happy but in our empty bellies, didn’t have the courage to take another staircase!
While my sister and brother-in-law decided to explore the local market in Lal Bazar Rd, my mom and I decided to get back to our hotel room to grab some sleep. Geeta and Poggo kept sending wonderful pics of their adventures from different eateries of Gangtok. I was shameless enough to ask Geeta to bring along a cake with her, as it was her 36th birthday 🥲
36 and Fabulous! Happy Birthday to My Wife, Sous Chef!
In the evening, when we all regrouped, we had a joint cake cutting session by Geeta and Poggo (we had promised Poggo to redo her birthday as we couldn’t be there on her 8th birthday, last month in Delhi). The Black Forest cake was perfectly positioned to become our desert, but hey, the dinner main course is pending too.
Time to divide and conquer! Geeta, Poggo, and I set off for Mu Kimchi, determined to conquer our hunger pangs with some Korean goodness. Meanwhile, my sister and brother-in-law embarked on their own culinary quest – deciphering the secrets of Shuffle Momos. As for Mom, after a day that involved more stairs than she bargained for (the frequent elevation changes on the roads of Gangtok city are no joke!), she opted for some well-deserved relaxation at the Airbnb.
Mu Kimchi turned out to be worth every step of that long and stair-filled journey! We were about to throw in the towel, but the perseverance paid off in spades. The restaurant itself was a delightful surprise – less crowded and with a calming atmosphere. While Poggo’s quest for veg momos continued (believe it or not, this was the third strike since morening!), she bravely ventured into chicken territory. We also dove into some Korean Fried Chicken and chicken rice noodles. Every single dish was an explosion of flavor – a delicious reward for our mini-trek!
Gangtok Food Scenes – For a unique and less crowded dining experience, explore the hidden alleys branching off MG Marg.
Dinner was a delicious mood-booster! We decided to let the North Sikkim setback go and focus on enjoying the rest of our trip. With that in mind, I hatched a new plan. South Sikkim, here we come! Since this was a spur-of-the-moment decision, finding accommodations on the fly turned out to be a challenge. Unfortunately, Gangtok seemed abuzz with the news of North Sikkim permits being unavailable, and popular hotels in South were filling up fast. Mr. Kunzang, our travel guardian angel, came to the rescue yet again. He found us a charming homestay – his resourcefulness continued to amaze us!
The evening chill, courtesy of the day’s rain, ushered us into an early bedtime. An early start tomorrow is key to beating the tourist rush that clogs Gangtok’s streets! This concludes part two of my Sikkim Chronicles. If you’re enjoying the ride so far, hit that share button and spread the Sikkim love! (And hey, a few new followers wouldn’t hurt 😉)
Thanks for reading!